How We Fix Dog Reactivity at BBK9
A Step-By-Step Guide for Owners
If you’re dealing with a reactive dog, you already know how overwhelming it can feel.
Barking. Lunging. Growling. Meltdowns on leash. Avoiding walks. Planning your life around triggers.
The good news? Reactivity can be improved, and in many cases, completely transformed with the right structure, consistency, and guidance.
At Battle Bridge Canine in Coats, NC, we work with reactive dogs regularly. While every trainer’s approach will vary and every dog is different, this guide will walk you through the foundational steps we use to address reactivity safely and effectively.
And most importantly, remember that fixing reactivity is not an overnight process. In most cases, these foundations are practiced intensely and consistently over the course of 3–6 weeks or more before we ever expect major breakthroughs.
Let’s break it down.
Step 1: Decompression Comes First
Before we ever address triggers directly, we focus on decompression.
Reactive dogs are often overstimulated, overstressed, and mentally “on edge.” If we immediately throw them into more exposure, we usually make things worse.
Decompression may include:
Pausing outings
Structured walks instead of free-for-all stimulation
Eliminating dog park or doggie daycare visits
Creating predictable routines
Lowering overall stress levels
We also ensure that the dog is receiving enough rest. Most adult dogs benefit from upwards of 16-18 hours of rest per day.
For many dogs, this alone can start reducing reactivity because their nervous system finally gets a break.
Step 2: Establish Clear Boundaries at Home
Reactivity does not only exist on walks.
It often shows up in small ways inside the home:
Rushing doors
Barking out windows
Explosive kennel exits
Chaotic energy indoors
Ignoring commands or corrections
Before we work in public, we build structure inside the house.
Some simple rules we implement:
No rushing out of doors or kennels, we want to help slow their minds by slowing their bodies
No uncontrolled barking, chaos in the home bleeds into everywhere else
No frantic, overstimulated indoor behavior
Calm entry and exit routines
Why?
Because boundaries build emotional control.
If a dog cannot remain calm walking out of the front door, we cannot expect them to remain calm when another dog walks by.
Step 3: Leash Work & Limiting Decision Making
Many reactive dogs are used to constantly making their own decisions.
When we begin training, we often utilize a leash, even inside, to safely limit poor choices and guide better ones.
This allows us to:
Interrupt rehearsed reactive behaviors
Prevent pacing or fixation
Guide calm responses
Increase handler influence
Control creates clarity. And clarity builds confidence.
Step 4: Teach the Dog How to Settle
One of the most overlooked skills in dog training is settling.
Reactive dogs are often in a constant state of anticipation. Teaching them how to turn “off” is critical.
We practice settling through:
Holding the leash calmly and ignoring the dog until they settle
Back-tie sessions
“Place” training
Structured kennel time
The goal isn’t suppression. It’s teaching emotional regulation.
If your dog cannot settle in your living room, they will not magically settle in public.
Step 5: Meet Their Mental & Physical Needs Properly
A reactive dog with unmet needs will struggle to make progress.
We ensure dogs receive:
Structured physical exercise
Mental stimulation
Clear communication
Consistent expectations
Often, behavior improves when outlets are appropriate and predictable.
This can be especially helpful if we implement breed specific outlets. Reactivity can often come from a place of a breeds’ specific needs not being meet appropriately.
Step 6: Build a Baseline of Obedience
Before working around triggers, we want reliable basics:
Sit
Down
Recall foundations
Loose leash walking
Place
Engagement with handler
Obedience is not about control for control’s sake; it gives us tools to redirect and guide behavior when triggers appear.
Step 7: Controlled, Simple Outings
Now we begin applying skills outside the home.
We don’t start at the dog park or somewhere surrounded by their triggers.
We begin somewhere simple, like:
A large empty park
A quiet walking trail
A low-traffic public space
These outings allow us to practice everything learned at home, but with mild environmental distractions.
The goal is to take them somewhere that is wide open. This will allow you to see triggers coming so that you can make proactive decisions and create space from triggers when needed.
Only once those are successful do we increase difficulty.
But what does success look like?
Less stress signals
More calm behaviors
Increased ability to settle
No or extremely limited reactions
What If Your Dog Is Reactive in the Car?
Car reactivity is very common, especially in dogs who already struggle with leash or environmental triggers.
You may see:
Barking at dogs or people through the windows
Lunging from seat to seat
Spinning, pacing, or hyper-fixating
Escalated arousal before you even arrive somewhere
The car often amplifies reactivity because:
The dog feels confined
They cannot create distance from the trigger
Windows increase visual stimulation
Movement adds additional arousal
In the beginning, we often focus on management in the car.
Option 1: Utilize a Kennel
One of the most effective tools for car reactivity is crating your dog in the vehicle.
A properly sized, secure kennel:
Limits visual access to triggers
Prevents rehearsing reactive behaviors
Increases safety for both dog and driver
Creates a more controlled environment
If visual stimulation is a major trigger, covering the kennel (when safe and well-ventilated) can significantly reduce reactions.
Sometimes, the goal is not immediate training, it’s preventing rehearsal.
Every time your dog explodes at a passing dog through the window, that behavior gets practiced and strengthened. Management stops that cycle.
For many dogs, this is a temporary step while we build better emotional regulation overall.
Option 2: Take the Edge Off Before the Ride
If your dog is already highly aroused before getting into the car, the car will amplify it.
Before loading up, try:
Structured play
A short training session
A controlled walk
Mental enrichment
The goal is not to exhaust your dog, it’s to lower baseline arousal so they enter the car in a calmer state.
This is also often a temporary management strategy while we work through deeper reactivity foundations.
Option 3: Teach a Structured Down Stay in the Vehicle
For some dogs, once foundations are solid, we can begin teaching a structured down stay in the back floorboard of the vehicle.
This is not something we implement on day one with a highly reactive dog. It comes after:
Strong obedience foundations
Reliable down command
Clear understanding of leash pressure, e collar, or markers
Improved emotional regulation
Why the back floorboard?
It naturally limits visual access to triggers
It creates physical boundaries
It reduces pacing and frantic movement
It encourages a lower, calmer body position
We start this training parked and stationary, not while driving.
Steps may include:
Load calmly into the vehicle.
Guide the dog into a down position in the back floorboard.
Reinforce duration and stillness.
Correct breaking position only if the dog clearly understands expectations.
Gradually introduce mild movement (engine on, short drives, etc.).
The goal is teaching the dog that the car is a structured environment, not a viewing platform.
A strong down stay shifts the dog from scanning and reacting to resting and disengaging.
Important: This Is Earned Freedom
A down stay in the car is not appropriate for every reactive dog right away.
If your dog is:
Exploding at every passing stimulus
Unable to hold duration indoors
Escalating quickly in confined spaces
Then kennel management may still be the safest and most productive option for now.
As with all reactivity work, we build in layers.
Management first.
Foundations second.
Controlled exposure third.
More freedom comes last.
Management Is Not Failure
Many owners feel discouraged using a kennel or covering it.
But management is not giving up.
It is a strategic decision to:
Prevent escalation
Reduce stress
Keep everyone safe
Stop rehearsal of unwanted behavior
Don’t Skip the Foundations
Car reactivity is rarely “just” about the car.
It usually connects back to:
Lack of impulse control
Poor settling skills
Overexposure to triggers
General environmental reactivity
As we improve obedience, emotional regulation, and neutrality outside of the car, we often see car behavior improve as well.
Step 8: Gradual Exposure to Triggers
Triggers are the specific things that cause your dog to react, often dogs, people, cars, bikes, etc.
We work around triggers gradually using a mix of methods:
1. Sitting and Watching
We simply observe from a safe distance.
No greeting. No interaction. Just calm exposure.
This teaches neutrality.
2. “Look at That” Game
We reward the dog for:
Noticing the trigger
Then voluntarily looking back to us or away from the trigger
This builds engagement and changes the emotional response when done correctly.
3. Calm Passing at Safe Distance
We practice walking past triggers far enough away that the dog can remain successful.
Distance is not avoidance, it’s strategy.
Progressively, that distance decreases as the dog improves.
When Do We Use Corrections?
This is one of the most misunderstood parts of reactive dog training.
Corrections are almost never the starting point.
They come with time, and only when:
The dog understands expectations
The dog has practiced alternatives
The handler can apply them correctly
Over-correcting or correcting too early can absolutely worsen reactivity.
What About Rewards?
Reward timing matters just as much.
Rewarding too late…
Rewarding while the dog is still fixated…
Rewarding tension…
All of these can unintentionally reinforce the wrong behavior.
Both corrections and rewards must be applied thoughtfully and strategically.
Rewards can be anything you dog finds valuable. Play, food, affection, ect.
How Long Does It Take?
There is no universal timeline.
But in most cases, we practice these foundations consistently for 3–6 weeks before expecting meaningful shifts in behavior.
Some dogs progress faster. Some require more time.
Reactivity is emotional, and emotional change takes repetition.
The Truth About Fixing Reactivity
There is no shortcut.
There is no magic tool.
There is no overnight fix.
But with:
Structure
Clarity
Proper exposure
Consistency
And guidance when needed
Reactive dogs can absolutely improve.
At Battle Bridge Canine in Coats, NC, we specialize in helping owners work through leash reactivity, dog reactivity, and public behavior struggles with practical, balanced methods that prioritize safety and long-term results.
If you’re struggling with your reactive dog in Coats or the surrounding North Carolina area, reach out to us. We’re here to help you build a dog you can confidently enjoy in public again.
